Sunday, October 17, 2010

Classically Coastal


Downeast lobster rolls, steamers, chowder - these delicious delicacies materialize in our minds when we think of classic Maine fare. This coastal cuisine is one of the reasons Roger and I started visiting Maine four years ago. As my adventure continues, and I set out to try new and exciting dishes, I could never pass up the opportunity to eat like a native "Mainer". The second half of my trip blog will focus on the seafaring side of Maine and what it has to offer.

It wasn't long before we were sitting on a dock, savoring broth and butter dipped steamed clams, piping hot. We were in Bar Harbor at Stewman's Downtown. I sipped on a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and Roger enjoyed a beer called Smuttynose. Our starter was two pounds of steamers, which I had been craving for weeks before the vacation. They were perfect! I followed them up with a main course of Frenchman's Bay Haddock sandwich and Roger: a lobster roll prepared with huge chunks of lobster and no mayo except for a smearing on the toasted bun. It was an immensely satisfying "classic" dinner. Stewman's is legendary in Bar Harbor, and even more so recently since President Obama dined there with his family. The place is recently rennovated and may be getting a bit conceited and cold. However, the food was excellent so all in all it was a great night.

Another famous (or infamous) spot in Bar Harbor that we visited for a lunch was Geddy's Bar & Grill. The atmostphere is that of a local sports bar with all sorts of Maine memorabilia on the walls and hanging from the ceiling. They present themselves as a wildly fun spot that offers just about any kind of food that your appetite desires. Of course we ordered local brew, then Roger ordered a gourmet personal pizza and I chose a crab sandwich that was stacked high with fresh meat and served with cole slaw, french fries and a pickle. What can I say? It was exactly what you should order from a rockin' crazy place like Geddy's. Remember: When in Rome.

Let's travel back to the quiet side, where we are staying in Southwest Harbor. The true local feel is apparent there and, although they have welcomed the new age flare of Fiddler's Green and Red Sky, the classic downeast is everywhere. It would not be a Maine vacation without eating one meal at Beal's Lobster Pound. The crisp, cold sea air hits you as you step out of the car and approach the building on the dock. Plastic wind barrier walls line the picnic tables. Now, you absolutely have to order chowder! We ordered the New England clam, which was not as thick and rich in the texture but heavy in clams and dill. It was super hot and absolutely fit with the scene. Once again, we ate two pounds of steamers. They were as good as Stewman's (if not better), and the price down at the Lobster Pound was definitely best. We paired these with none other than the Atlantic Brewing Company's Real Ale. Needless to say, as this was lunch, a nap was soon to follow.


These highlights are the aspects of Maine that I treasure most. Aside from the fare, the coast itself is breathtaking. Pictured in this blog is Sand Beach from The Beehive summit, where the icy green waters refresh your soul as they hit the coarse ground sand set snuggly between the granite mountains. Just to sit on the beach there, you understand what Maine is all about.

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